We had a much welcomed lay-day on Monday in Santiago, but walked our socks off exploring the old town.
Helen qualified for her Camino certificate, but cyclists have to do double the distance so I dipped out! Can only provide proof that I made it to the ultimate destination!!
It was a hot day for wandering, but we enjoyed meandering around the shops and historic buildings watching life as it spilled out on the streets, among buskers, beggars and tired walkers. Everyone watches the modern pilgrims arrive,.... some celebrate, but others just do this....
We made it back to the cathedral. This grand old lady was built in 1075 and apparently took 36 years to construct. We just missed out on the swinging of the botafumeira, but the heady smell of the smoking incense remained. Apparently the incense cleans the air and symbolizes purity!
The story goes that when the original pilgrims arrived they were a brigade of the 'great unwashed' so the incense masked their odour! This botafumeiro is suspended by a serious pulley mechanism that requires eight men to do the rope work. It becomes a giant pendulum which swings about 70 kph across the naves of the church so one lives in hope the ropes are secure.
At lunchtime we were keen to try the region's signature dish Pulpo a la Feira (octopus cooked with paprika). It was delicious!!
Nothing like a busy day to prepare us for a good night's sleep so we could begin another Camino trail, this time to Finisterre. This is a 'track less travelled' and following the beginning from Santiago was difficult. The yellow arrows painted on the pavement were well faded. Getting back on the bike was a new learning curve. How do I ride this thing??
The beginning of the Finisterre trail was very challenging......definitely a NZ grade 3+ in parts........white knuckle stuff in places. I just had to point the bike forward and hope I stayed upright. At one stage, before entering Negreira, there was a hill so steep I was struggling, even with turbo assist. But generally I loved the serenity and solitude of the Galician bush.
I came across this property for sale. A real bargain. Fancy a 'retirement do-up job' Dougy??!!!
Perhaps turn it in to something like this....
Yesterday was our hottest day so far. 30 degrees made us melt on the trail. Our stopover was Negreira. Later in the afternoon a storm brewed and blew the hotel umbrellas around the carpark; all the pot plants took a tumble; and the lounge cushions took off down the road. Exciting!
What a difference a day makes. Today the temperature has dropped and it we have been in constant drizzle. The most impressive sight was the fortified gateway on the exit from Negreira.
The countryside on the way to Olveiroa was dominated by beef farming. In many places we shared the trail where the cattle had been. At this stage I need to explain my bike doesn't have mud guards..........
L-o-v-e-l-y!! The rain made it impossible to take photos. The best I could do was capture a brief glimpse of the wind farm.....
Now I am at our pension, cold and wet, waiting for cold and wet Helen to arrive. Our room isn't ready so I am sitting in the bar having an empanada. The old fella next to me has an even better idea. He has a large wine glass full of Galliano!!!
Ciao
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