Sunday 29 March 2020

Our happy space in NZ

Life on the road is hard to beat in good weather, with fun company, and with ever-changing, captivating scenery. This time we had no fixed plan, other than head south, but not too far south. We packed up our motorhome and left around the same time as several hundred serious cyclists on the Aotearoa Cycle Trail from Cape Reinga to Bluff. Many of them stopped at the same campsite as us on the banks of the Waikato River,......but while we sipped wine at sunset, fired the barbecue and slept comfortable in a double bed; they drank water, ate muesli bars and slipped into tents the size of our kayaks.......


A lot happened in three weeks. Not only did Covid-19 tip the world on its axis, but we experienced a sudden drop to near-Autumn temperatures. We started in around 30 degrees and couldn't get cool and ended in 19 degrees where we started piling on the layers. One early highlight was Taupo,... delightful camps at both Whakaipo Bay and Kinloch. The challenge was to complete the W2K Bike Trail,....Grade 3(!!) without hitting the deck!!! It wound through native bush, over tree roots, and around rocky outcrops, but all was forgiven with the spectacular views.




Final reward of all was parking our butts in Lake Taupo to cool off and watch the sun go down.....


And so,.....on down the middle of the island, taking three days to get to Wairarapa. First highlight was Martinborough Fair, a significant cash injection for the region as they have over 500 stalls. It is supposed to be mainly craft, but there is a fair share of clothing, gimicky products, great food and lively buskers. Doug even had a ride in a new series 3 Tesla. A haven for people-watching.
This would have to be the best barbecue set-up around, complete with drinks on ice ....


We camped by Lake Wairarapa, took our bikes on the train through to Maymorn [Upper Hutt] and biked back to Featherston on the Rimutaka Rail Trail. It was more leisurely than W2K and a real highlight. We rode through four tunnels, and across a few bridges,....the one below over Horseshoe Gully, finished only this year......




We heard Lake Wairarapa is terminally ill because its water is 'supertrophic' [new word I had to use!!],.....possibly nutrients from the surrounding farmland. Anyway, for us the best views were in the early evening,...or even better the rising sun......


And so on down to Lower Hutt where we parked in Alison's driveway [just!] and had valuable family time. We discovered some really great walks and cafes. Also achieved a long-time wish to visit Somes Island, Wellington's version of Alcatraz! Once a quarantine station, it is now managed by DOC who are pretty serious about not bringing in anything that would destroy the natural flora and fauna. They watched us empty our pockets and backpacks,.....even cleaned our boots! But unfortunately there was no check on those who photo-bombed my pic.....


The southerly wind has made itself felt over time....


.....but generally it was lovely to stroll around the walkways, learn the history and feel at one with the wilderness. We didn't see the resident blue penguins, but spotted a few kakariki, several lizards,.....even poked our noses into a giant weta motel....


After several days in and around Wellington, our slow trek home took us to Palliser Bay, one of our favourite spots, but never before had we explored the Pinnacles in this area. It is a similar version to the Canadian Hoodoos.



Our favourite pastime is watchng the fishermen at Palliser. They are deadly serious!! No trailing the fishing dinghy behind the 4WD ute for these fellas. No way!! They have the 'big guns',......retired bull-dozers to launch the boats off the shingle beach.....


On the road around to Cape Palliser Lighthouse is North Island's largest fur seal colony. I can't believe we sat and watched them for so long. The pups spent hours hooning around in the shallow water while their Mums were out fishing. Then occasionally the BIG bull seals would make their presence felt, and exercise their authority over anyone in their way.



Further up the coast is another favourite spot,......Castlepoint. Sadly we missed the beach horse racing by a day, but took the opportunity of fabulous weather to explore the coastline.



For some reason our onward travel took us off the beaten track to Porangahau. This was indeed the long, windy road country singers based their lyrics on. It seemed that to live in this area you had to drive a white ute containing at least three cattle dogs to bark at oncoming traffic. But, even this area is world famous. By an insignificant hill, along an insignificant stretch of road lies a place with the longest name in the world.....


Further towards home, Napier provided another magnet for us,....not so much to explore the vineyards, but to get in some serious bike riding again. The trail took us along the coastline and through the apple orchard areas. It was the picking season,......nothing like an apple straight from the tree. We love Napier foreshore and every time we visit we admire the Spirit of Napier sculpture depicting the city rising from the ashes of the 1931 earthquake.


By the time we reached Mahia Peninsula word of the Coronavirus lockdown was becoming more serious, so we needed to make a dash for home. Our last camping spot gave us a chance to finish our road trip on a high and a promise to return again as soon as we can.




Take care everyone and stay safe.