Friday 1 November 2019

The Ghan, Darwin and Kakadu

After handing the keys to the campervan back to Maui we were happy to sit back and be driven for the next few days. A short flight to Adelaide and connection to The Ghan allowed us to relax a while and be thoroughly pampered. This beautiful train took three days to snake it's way up through the mighty central desert to Darwin.


The Ghan is just under a kilometre long and it was like a cruise ship on tracks. They had a staff of 50 to look after 200+ passengers. The food was stunning. Menu offerings included crocodile, buffalo, kangaroo and barramundi. We are in fresh mango country up here too!!




Our first stopover was at 0600 next morning to see a desert sunrise, while having coffee and vegemite scrolls by a campfire, in a tiny place called Marla. Although just a weather outpost, Marla has a police station for 100 people!!! We didn't see anyone,.... just a few wild horses, but the sunrise was fiery.


On to Alice Springs and our second stopover. Doug took off on a Desert Experience to get among eagles, reptiles, insects and dingoes......


.....while I went on a camel trek. Here is an 8-year old , highly intelligent camel with a 68-year old less intelligent person on it's back!!


Actually it was fun, in spite of the heat, flies, and dust! Our final stopover was Katherine. By this stage temperatures were in the high 30's and the humidity crawled all over us. We visited Katherine Gorge, a hidden gem in Nitmiluk National Park. Being the end of the dry season only two of the 13 gorges were navigable. No freshwater crocs to see, but the rock formations were quite dramatic.  Apparently it is safe to swim with freshwater crocs?? Mmm.... maybe next time!!!



The beginning of the wet season is certainly upon Darwin. The locals call it "the build-up", a time of increased anxiety, punctuated with mood swings! The sky looks like it is going to burst into a thunderstorm at any moment. Humidity is nearly at its peak. Here are some pearling boats against a spooky sky....


Thankfully my memories of post-cyclone Tracy have now been erased as Darwin is now colourful and vibrant.  The waterfront dominated our attention. Life is lived outdoors and any excuse is good enough for a celebration. We struck one at the Mindel Beach Night Market where they celebrated the end of the dry season with fireworks.




The grand finale to our trip was Kakadu National Park.  It was like stepping into another world, - a very spectacular ecosystem in a tropical setting, with scorching temperatures. It was useless visiting dams, billabong and waterfalls because they were all dry. Highlights for us were exploring the wildlife on Yellow Waters, a flight over Arnhem Land, and watching the crocs feed on barramundi at Cahill's Crossing. Spot the snake....